Leisure

Mama Rouge paints the waterfront red

By

October 29, 2014


Named after Chef Aulie Bunyarataphan’s grandmother—the original Mama Rouge—Georgetown’s latest chic dining option is anything but retrospective. This Southeast Asian bistro offers affordable comfort food with a French flare for a dynamic mixing and matching of flavors from opposite ends of Eurasia.

The decor of Mama Rouge is consistent with its name. The deep red color scheme, bright accent furniture, and a tight seating arrangement give off a warm and cozy vibe one would expect to find in a traditional brasserie on the Rive Droite.

Signature beverages, such as the Thai Basil Soda and Toasted Coconut Milk, elegantly replace the offerings of iced tea and sodas. The basil in the Thai Soda adds a refreshing twist to what would otherwise be a plain lemon pop. The latter is a light coconut-flavored drink, without the usual creamy texture of coconut milk.

The presentation of the Chicken Lettuce Wraps—a blend of roasted chicken and Southeast Asian herbs, such as cilantro and lime wrapped in a lettuce leaf—was surprisingly charming. Despite this charm, the generous dose of soy sauce overshadowed the light and delicate flavors of the appetizer’s fresh ingredients.

The main entrees are not shy in boasting bold spice levels—unique among many American-Asian restaurants. The Malaysian Massaman, a yellow curry dish with shrimp and tofu, is served with both jasmine rice and a French baguette, tying together the mix-and-match idea of Southeast Asian and French cuisine. The curry is creamy, but not too heavy and strikes an exciting balance between sweet and salty.

Bean Thread Noodles, a special type of thin crystal noodles served as an entree, is a refreshing, simple customer favorite. Stir  fried with barbeque chicken and vegetables, it provides what we all expect from typical Southeast Asian cuisine: fresh, flavorful, with a spicy flare.

The portion size of the main entrees is generous without being overwhelmingly large. Be sure to practice your chopstick stills before going to Mama Rogue, however, as the restaurant doesn’t provide forks and knives unless asked.

Typical French desserts, such as Creme Brulee and Pain Perdu, dominate the dessert menu. The Fruit Tartin, a puff pastry topped with a circle of baked apples and a generous scoop of vanilla ice cream, was presented clumsily—more like how a slice of pie would be served at Thanksgiving dinner. The dish, however, compensates in taste what it lacks in appearance, as it is indulgently sweet while unexpectedly light and fresh, consistent with the rest of the meal.

With its sophisticated decor and high-quality food, Mama Rouge finds a niche between an ostentatious French-infused bistro and your local, hole-in-the-wall Southeast Asian fast food joint.

Mama Rouge

3000 K St. N.W.

Mon.-Sun., 11:30 a.m.-10:30 p.m.

mamarouge.com



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