Leisure

Some retro sneaker savoir-faire

By the

April 22, 2004


Ahhh, springtime is here again. Squirrels are hopping, dogs are chasing them, and you’re chasing all the hottest new fashions. Spring is the perfect time for bringing out those spanking new classic athletic kicks that you’ve had stored away in your closet for playing ultimate frisbee or pick-up basketball.

What’s that, you don’t have a new pair yet? No worries, our Athletic Shoe Critic will talk you through it. After all, there’s a whole world of new-retro hotness out there, and we wouldn’t want anyone getting lost in the sea of sneakers abundant in Georgetown and Internet shopping.

Let’s start with something familiar. Over the past five years New Balance has emerged as the new chic preppie choice, with the traditional grey 991 establishing itself as a popular shoe. With nearly every strapping young chap with a popped collar sporting a pair of 991s, we figure it’s time to think like Emeril and “kick it up a notch.” Try their truest retro shoe, the 1300, which looks almost like a 991 with a slightly squishy white collared heel. True, at first glance many people won’t be able to tell the difference, but the real urban hipsters will appreciate your sneaker savoir-faire. Besides, while 991s retail for $120, the out-of-production 1300s are sometimes as low as $65-70 if you can find them.

Too many people have New Balances, you say? Well then, stomp around in some A-di-das like Run DMC. Adidas was the first company to fully commit to rescusitating their classic shoe models, beginning with their classic Samba indoor soccer shoes. Their shell-toed Superstars followed not long after, and nearly all of their former classics from the early ‘80s to the present can be found online.

But let’s find a middle ground in all this mess. Let’s take it back to 1996. That’s right people. Fargo, Sling Blade, Trainspotting and one great pair of Adidas trail running shoes. The Response Trail ‘96, usually available in a couple different colorways today, featured incredible support with a rugged trail-inspired outsole with the classic Adidas “3-stripes” markings. The kicks also had one of the most innovative shoe features on the market-a one-piece, form-fitting neoprene tongue that connected to the rest of the shoe, making for a sock-like, comfortable fit.

But there’s even more outside of New Balance and Adidas! Welcome to the wonderful, if almost dizzying, world of re-released classic Nikes. The world’s most prolific and profitable shoe company has not missed out on the retro sneaker trend, no siree.

Start with Nike’s Air Max One circa 1988-89, the first shoes with their classic “airbags.” While the company’s re-released Air Burst, with high-volume full air pockets in the heels, have been purchased more than their retro brethren, the Air Max One’s bring more old school flavor, with a simple trademark Swoosh on their side and “Air Max” written on the heel. The smaller airbags are also significantly less ostentatious, which makes them understated and that much cooler.

Looking for something a bit more flashy? Try the savannah-inspired Air Safari ‘87, an airbag-less, all-leather shoe with a large shoe on the side and, you guessed it, cheetah-print suede leather on the front toe box and heel area.

If you’re into the huge airbags and like to show off the bling (these babies retail for a whomping $135-159), there’s a perfect pair for you. Try the Air Max ‘95, recently re-released after a three-year hiatus. Only available in a couple of colorways, but planned for may future color combinations, the ‘95s were Nike’s first kicks to feature air all around their soles, with airbags in the heel and in the toe box. With an understated swoosh and small “Nike Air” on the heel, these shoes were all the rage when they were first released in the mid ‘90s.

Like a fine wine, they have only become more beautiful with age. And don’t fret, if you fear that too many others will be sporting the ‘95s this spring you can upgrade from there. Go on E-bay, or an online rare shoe outlet (such as www.instyleshoes.com) and check out the European released Air Max 95Z. Only offered to our neighbors across the pond, the 95Z is an Air Max 95 with a zippered sleeve in place of laces. Often in flashier colorways, including an all-Gold exclusive released specifically for Japan and England, the 95Zs may be the ultra-new retro kicks to complete your look and prove just how much you know about old-school sneakers.

How have we talked about retro shoes without touching on Reebok, Puma or Saucony, you ask? Well, we we’re getting there. Reebok’s kicks have tended to consist of variations on their classic model, which has been in constant production since its release in the early ‘80s. The most recent adaptation of the design came with the Jay-Z-modeled S. Carter originals, which sold like hotcakes but look identical to the original Reebok design with a slightly more understated trademark “vector” logo and the all-important “S. Carter” signature on the heel. Blingy.

On to Saucony, which started as a tiny running shoe company out of rural Massachusetts and has developed a re-release catalog whose profits rival its specialized running shoes. In comparison to the hefty pricetag of New Balances or Adidas, Saucony’s shoes are more affordable. Leading the Saucony way are the classic Jazz model, a plain nylon-based shoe featuring their “S” logo, and the Shadow, like the Jazz but with a more squared toe box, net wrapped heel and small heel counter. Hard to go wrong with their consistency, especially with some of the more flashy colorways they have introduced over the past six months.

Finally, Puma , a relative latecomer to the retro craze, pushed in with full force about two years ago and hasn’t looked back since. After sales of their older classics like the Easy Rider fell, the company bucked the trend of clunkier retro shoes by going lightweight with their Anjan model. The nylon mesh shoes, monotone with the traditional Puma waterfall along both sides, are feather-light and give off that tragic hipster vibe while keeping their wearer’s feet airy and comfortable.

Just behind Puma in the retro wars are efforts from Asics and the recently re-vamped ‘Roos brand. Asics, the Asian-based advanced running shoe company has long been known for technological innovation. Fortunately for them, yesterday’s innovation has turned into today’s hot item. Try their original “Onitsuka Tiger Paw,”a lightweight, thin-soled runner re-popularized by Uma Thurman in Kill Bill. Their wrestling based models, including the recently re-released “Top-5,” have been hot for the past year.

‘Roos, on the other hand, are the newest kids on the block. The running shoe maker, which once made Walter Payton’s football cleats, is back with it’s patented pocket-sided shoe. Grab a classic for those romantic nights out, because that pocket is just the size of an … ummm … prophylactic.

If you can’t decide between which styles to buy from the multitude of retro shoes out there, don’t feel overwhelmed. This writer has 12 pairs and sees no reason to stop there.



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