Chain ethnic restaurants like Panda Express and Star of India usually serve up cringe-worthy cuisine with less than stellar service. Luckily, Penang in Dupont Circle is a chain franchise with a refined take on Malaysian cuisine.
Hidden atop a Chipotle, Penang aims to create that elusive “hip and young” ambience. The restaurant largely succeeds, with a sleek, long mahogany bar, a large flat-screen TV and pulsing music that makes the waiting area feel more like a club than a restaurant. At the tables, though, the atmosphere becomes more sophisticated, with plush canvas chairs that feel like something you’d find in an old-money living room.
The décor sets expectations for both high quality food and high prices. Fortunately, Penang delivers on the former, but not the latter. While the entrees hover between $10 and $20, the real steals are the appetizers, which never cost more than $10 but still provide plentiful portions.
Malaysian restaurant regulars will instantly recognize roti canai (pronounced “chanai,” $4.25), a crispy pancake served with chicken curry dipping sauce; Penang claims its own is an “award-winning family recipe.” The dish lives up to the hype—instead of serving typical Indian flatbread as many other Malaysian restaurants do, Penang’s roti canai is authentically Malaysian—thin, fluffy and hand tossed. Paired with a chicken curry sauce full of zing and zest, it’s a must-have appetizer for both new and old connoisseurs of Malaysian cuisine.
The murtabak ($8.95), is another fantastic appetizer. An Indian-style pancake similar to the roti canai but filled with eggs, onions and minced beef and served with a chicken curry sauce, the murtabak’s sauce was more intricate than the roti canai’s, with an addictively spicy flavor and a satisfying crunch. The leftover sauce from either appetizer makes a great addition to white rice.
Penang also executes the Malyasian staple Char Koay Teow ($9.95) authentically. A spicy black soya chili sauce distinguishes it from a typical Southeast Asian rice noodle dish to one with a distinctly Malay flavor, and the sauce is well-balanced by an abundance of shrimp, eggs, chives and bean sprouts. The Kacang Pendek Belachan ($7.50) metamorphoses simple sautéed string beans into an exotic and palatable dish with a snappy shrimp sauce.If there’s any space left for dessert, the peanut pancake ($7.50) is made of the same pancake as the roti canai filled with a sweet peanut sauce and finely chopped peanuts. Accurately described by the menu as “crispy outside, and moist inside,” the dessert could benefit from an extra dose of delicate crispiness—and also enhance its authenticity. Also, be warned that the portion size is almost equivalent to an entrée and should be shared.
The only thing that Penang fails to deliver is rapid service. Our server seemed to be unaware of when water glasses needed to be refilled and when to take the plates away. He was unable to answer any questions about the dishes, instead directing me to “just read the menu.” At such a chic restaurant, I would expect the service to be polite and fairly competent, and for most of the evening, our server was neither. I hope for Penang’s sake that this is the exception to the rule.
Nevertheless, the food and the prices warrant a visit to Penang, as this is as close as D.C. restaurants get to authentic Malaysian cuisine. The flavors, ingredients and cooking styles of Malaysian food are reminiscent of some Indian and Chinese dishes, so avid fans of Asian cuisine should not hesitate to make Penang their first foray into Malaysian. Those unwilling to risk the possibility of bad service should opt for takeout or delivery, as the intricate spices and unique combinations of Penang’s dishes are not to be missed.
Penang is located at 1837 M St NW in Dupont Circle. For delivery call 202-822-8773.
