Sometimes you just get the urge to go out for a “nice dinner” at a place where, as Homer Simpson put it, they call you “sir” without adding “please leave.” Central Michel Richard, Michel Richard’s attempt to combine a relaxed environment with high-end feel-good food, is a place where you can satisfy that urge. Central is billed as a bistro, and is promoted as a more affordable, more down-to-earth incarnation of Richard’s D.C. flagship Citronelle. While Central succeeds in creating an unpretentious and inviting atmosphere uncharacteristic of fine dining establishments, the quality of food does not live up to expectations.
In terms of ambiance, Central Michel Richard is quintessential D.C. Located on Pennsylvania Avenue, a heartbeat away from the Capitol, the restaurant is filled with buzzing young politicos and the after-hours Capitol Hill crowd. The energy is palpable, enhanced by the open kitchen that allows foodies to pretend they are watching a live episode of Top Chef. The service, as one would expect, is impeccable and friendly.
Central’s décor is full of rich, warm, and golden tones; the booths are made of soft leather and are comfortable while maintaining a sophisticated aesthetic. The only aberrations are the sheer gold curtains hanging over mirrors, which can become a dizzying distraction. The aesthetic matches the menu, presenting American classics with French twists (which explains why the restaurant uses the French pronunciation: cen-tral).
Richard’s interpretation of the hamburger ($16) is definitely imbued with an artistic twist. With tomato, mayonnaise and a juicy patty, what sets this burger apart from any other are the potato tuiles—thin flat potato chips that separate the top of the burger from the bun. An intriguing addition, the tuiles solve the problem of a soggy bun while adding an interesting crunch to the burger. While the texture of the burger was new, the overall gustatory experience was disappointing, as the meat was flavorless and unexciting.
Similarly, the weakness of the filet mignon with potato and mushroom hash ($35) lay in the quality of the meat. The steak was succulent but had no flavor of its own. The hash made up for what the steak lacked, with thin crisp strips of potato intermingled with tender mushrooms in a rich sauce that enhanced the natural aromas of the mushrooms.
The only dish that lived up to expectations was the mussels with white wine and garlic ($18). The portion was surprisingly large and filling, and steamed perfectly so that they slid softly out of their shells, the mussels were a delight. The accompanying fries were European in cut, style, and taste, served with handmade garlic mayonnaise along with ketchup.
For dessert, the chocolate lava cake ($8) is a satisfying indulgence, though not outstanding. The small mound of chocolate cake, when bitten into, releases molten chocolate “lava” from the inside. The lava is a warm, thick concentration of melted chocolate that fortunately retains some bitter dark flavor, making a fine complement to the vanilla ice cream and cake.
Although Central does live up to its promises of sumptous atmosphere, the food fails to astonish the taste buds or warrant the price tag. The expectations that come with an infamous name like Michel Richard are indeed very high, and unfortunately Central does not live up to them. The dishes should have been a revelation, a mix of artistic surprise and culinary craftsmenship, but instead they were flawed and ultimately, forgettable.
Central Michel Richard is located at 1001 Pennsylvania Avenue and is open for lunch Monday through Friday 11:45am- 2:30pm, and Dinner Monday through Thursday 5pm- 10:30pm, Friday and Saturday from 5pm-11pm, and Sunday from 5:30-9:30pm. For reservations call 202-626-0015.
