When I used to think about “eco-fashion,” visions of boxy canvas dresses, natural hemp shoes, hair beads, tie-dye galore—and the tree-hugging, cannabis-drenched Deadheads that typically sport such looks—came to mind. Truth be told, a few years ago these assumptions would be pretty close to the truth. Not until recently were eco-friendly garments sold outside of stores that also peddled bongs and the Doobie Brothers on vinyl.
But like other industries, the fashion world has expanded its environmental consciousness to serve the niche that seeks earth friendly apparel. Gone are the days when only those in dreadlocks and Birkenstocks don organic garb. Now, sophisticated fashionistas are the ones anxious to get their hands on the finest chemical-free organic cotton that money can buy.
For the past couple of years, organic cotton garments have worked their way onto the shelves of mainstream clothing stores. Pushed along by the rise of fashion-forward lines like American Apparel and other eco-fashion lines out of California, the masses are now more aware of the detrimental effects that non-organic cotton has on the environment.
Since most of the cotton crop in the United States is comprised of genetically engineered monocultures (identical plants without genetic diversity), the cotton plants are more susceptible to insects, viruses, and bacteria that can ruin harvests. As a result, farmers of GE crops must spray mass quantities of chemicals on their fields—up to ten times a season—to guard against crop failure, a practice with terrible ecological consequences.
Cotton is among the worst of the pesticide-guzzling crops, requiring a pound of pesticides for every 3 pounds of cotton fibers it produces, according to the Sustainable Cotton Project (SCP), a nonprofit organization based out of California. In fact, SCP says that 25% of all the pesticides used in the States annually are applied to just cotton. That amounts to over 50 million pounds of pesticides used per year. Bolstered by the oh-shit-we’re-really-screwing-up-the-earth consensus that has emerged over the past decade, organic cotton has become a trendy and somewhat planet-helping commodity in the clothing markets.
However, that’s a big “somewhat”—organic cotton yields in the country still account for less than one percent of the cotton crop, yet some of that yield is still treated with chemical dyes and other synthetic additives, such as stain repellants and water wicking chemicals. Although these dyes and synthetic materials cause post-production pollution when the clothing is disposed, the USDA still deems it worthy of the “Certified Organic” badge.
Nonetheless, green activists are abuzz about the alternative textiles’ influence on the realm of runway fashion. This week, Audubon Magazine had a write-up about the prominence of sustainable and alternative fabrics used on runways from Milan to Los Angeles. At New York’s Fashion Week, an array of “green” fabrics graced the catwalk, such as piña cobweb (made from the leaves of pineapple plants) and hemp silk. Will manufacturers take the lead from designers, and deliver planet-friendly apparel at affordable prices to the masses? With any luck, this won’t just be another fleeting fashion trend.
Pick Keenan’s cotton at ktimko@georgetownvoice.edu
It’s good to see hemp getting the love finally. Don’t forget, every state in America could grow hemp well and not one of them legally on a federal level can. North Dakota, Vermont and Oregon have all passed a low making it legal to grow hemp and The Industrial Hemp Farming Bill” H.R. 1866″ is looking for co-sponsors. Hemp has come a long way since I got in the business while still at CWU in ’93. The t-shirts were like rice rucksacks with the knit so poor you could see right thru the shirt & without a chance of screen printing ’em. Our hemp t-shirts have done a complete 360 & are up there with the worlds best and most comfortable ringspun cotton t’s and much healthier to wear. for more information http://www.jungmaven.com or our facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/JUNGMAVEN/41588956914?ref=ts.
I went to the Washington DC Hemp Industries Association Conference in October and these are my notes.
1.) In Canada they are not using any pesticides for growing industrial hemp.
2.) Keeping industrial hemp contained is important to keep seed strains in check.
3.) Avoid crops with poor control.
4.) Harvest 5 days after killing frost.
5.) Go directly to drying process.
6.) Saskatchewan Province is currently growing the most hemp and Quebec is second.
7.) In Canada they are working on successfully getting hemp certified as animal feed for chickens. Huge opportunity for farmers and consumers as hemp is incredibly healthy for our food chain.
8.) If you see ditch weed hemp growing GPS the feral hemp because it’s potentially an excellent hearty hemp strain that lies dormant during winter surviving for the spring.
9.) Farmers can potentially receive 2,000 pounds of hemp oil per acre and at $1.00 a pound, hemp makes tons-of-sense.
10.) Hemp milk is taking over soy milk market quickly in Whole Foods other natural food stores.
11.) Website to check out: http://www.gov.mb.ca/agriculture/
12.) Write your State Representatives to co-sponsor the Industrial Hemp Farming Act of 2009. H.R. 1866. go here: http://capwiz.com/votehemp/home/
13.) Hemp houses are being built all over Europe and are stronger than cement homes and have better insulation. Hemcrete homes: http://americanlimetec.com/
14.) Hemp homes are healthy, people who live and work in them feel healthier, healthier air and better sound.
15.) Hemp home walls: 12″ wall = 24.7 R-Value & 16″ wall = 40 R-Value
16.) Sick Buildings are a problem in America and Hemp Homes are a great solution.
17.) Hemp homes have such good insulation they do not need heating/cooling systems all year round, great potential for wine industry in America.
18.) Hemp blocks are 1/4 of the weight of standard cement blocks.
19.) Retrofitting US Homes with hemp plaster/cement has huge opportunity for healing sick homes in the USA.
20.) Hemp homes have low diffusivity, slow to change temp., thermal inertia and higher vapor permeability. The temp. and humidity stay the same throughout the year with hemcrete. Adding lime keeps mold down.
21.) 2.5 acres of hemp can make a 1,500 SF house.
22.) Hemp homes are fire and pest resistant.
23.) In processing the hemp in the UK there is only 2% waste. They even use the hemp dust to build fire logs.
24.) Bio-plastics are a huge market that could easily begin utilizing hemp.
25.) Hemp is a robust plant, fast growing, strong suppression of weeds and no pesticides needed.