Carmine’s D.C., the newest location of the New York-based Italian eatery, seats almost 700. That’s more than any other restaurant in D.C., and it was packed at lunch hour this Tuesday. Since there’s nothing particularly adventurous on the menu that could lure such crowds, the number of patrons is surprising. The dishes are all classic pasta, meat, and salads that every Italian restaurant serves. But Carmine’s tradition of great family-style meals clearly got the attention of a few hundred D.C. locals.
There wasn’t a single open table when I arrived, so I sat at the bar and scanned the menu. The pasta plates offered a choice of noodles with a variety of sauces, such as traditional marinara, vodka, and giardiniera, among others. Ultimately, I decided on a veal cutlet hero. The meal arrived half an hour after I ordered, but when it finally did I was pleasantly surprised. The roll was fresh and crispy and the breaded veal was piled high. And while I appreciated the delicate tomato sauce, the finished product was simpler than I would have liked. If I was looking for added complexity, maybe I should have ordered the veal cutlet combo hero, served with fried eggplant, prosciutto, and mozzarella.
Most of Carmine’s dishes are for sharing, but even the dishes for one are hefty. My hero could easily have been split between two people. The communal dishes are part of the Carmine’s effort to recreate the feel of an Italian-American wedding. Entrees on the dinner menu range from $20 to $30, but splitting the cost makes a meal easily affordable. The lunch menu offers smaller dishes, like a chicken cutlet hero and personal pastas. The mixed green salads are delightful and leave plates of stuffed mushrooms or baked clams.
The décor is reminiscent of Little Italy. Photos of Italian brides and World War II bomber pilots adorn the walls, and speakers play old standards like “The Lady is a Tramp.” The bar sports large HDTVs for patrons who aren’t there for the family dining experience. Unfortunately, the designers also posted the menu, billboard-style, throughout the restaurant. These are imposing and distracting. When people eat their meals, it’s not wise to forcibly remind them of other dishes that might have been better.
Carmine’s originally opened in New York City, in 1990, and was successful enough to open another four locations. If the crowd during lunch was any indication, Carmine’s will be replicating that success in D.C. And quibbles with the interior design aside, Carmine’s does offer good food at a reasonable price.
As an added bonus, it’s only a few blocks from the Verizon Center. So skip the soggy nachos and mystery cheese at the next basketball game and get a platter of delicious fried calamari at Carmine’s for the same price instead.
