Leisure

DBGB crowdsurfs into D.C.

October 2, 2014


DBGB

DBGB’s interior might best be described as storeroom chic. Shelves are neatly lined with ingredients and dishes, cookware surrounding the dining area, giving the room a cozy, pantry-esque feel. Complemented by the sleek, minimalist furniture and lighting, DBGB’s style is both industrial and elegant. The plates displayed on the shelves were decorated by chefs who had previously visited the restaurant, including names such as Jose Andres and Anthony Bourdain (probably without reservations). The large back window in the dining area overlooks the new City Center. The restaurant’s decor and location help DBGB preserve its one-of-a-kind casual, clean look reflected in the dishes themselves.

But what exactly does DBGB stand for? Nothing in the restaurant even seems to hint at the answer to this puzzling mystery. The answer is a bit tricky, requiring first some backstory. DBGB has a counterpart with the same name located in the Bowery district of New York. Owner and chef Daniel Boulud named the New York location DBGB as a reference to the CBGB punk rock music club that was just a block away. There are no punk-rock riot grrrls hurling plates at chefs here, however. Instead, DBGB serves casual food with an upscale twist, boasting a trademark American influence on classic French dishes. 

The menu, according to the manager, is aptly split between traditional Americana and French basics, a staple in D.C.’s culinary culture. The menu starts off with “Bites to Share” and appetizers—both served in shareable smaller portions. The appetizer menu contains a selection of seasonally-rotated dishes, such as their signature Crispy Egg. Featuring broccoli rabe and radish topped with anchovy dressing and a deep fried hard-boiled egg, the dish offers a unique taste in which salty and bitter compete perfectly in a delicious contest. 

The main entrees come in more generous portions, but are accompanied by not-so-generous prices. The entrees can be shared, but once you’ve tasted them, you won’t want to. The signature Crabbie Burger consists of a traditional American burger topped with Maryland crab meat and Old Bay tartar sauce, served with a side of hand-cut fries, an addictive substance that does not have to be secretly consumed in DBGB’s bathroom. 

The pride and joy of DBGB, however, is their selection of signature sausages. Executive Chef Ed Scarpone began his culinary training in Bangkok, Thailand, reflected by the masterfully crafted, though thematically inconsistent, Thai sausage. Made with pork and red curry paste, this sausage is served with fried rice, red curry, and quail egg, creating a well-balanced, piquant flavor that should not go unordered. 

 DBGB keeps its food traditional and casual while successfully adding its own twists and sophistications. Boulud’s mastery of the basics allows the dishes to be complemented by the addition of supporting flavors. This improved essence of fundamental flavors, however, can be clearly observed in both the dishes’ tastes and prices. DBGB’s unique French-American cuisine offers a refreshing change of pace from any typical Georgetown meal, but be warned: though DBGB’s cuisine is something to bang your head to, the high prices may be reason for a riot.

DBGB Kitchen + Bar

931 H St N.W.

Monday-Sunday, 5 p.m.-11 p.m.

dbgb.com/dc



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