Leisure

Find the fish

By the

January 30, 2003


If you like seafood, gritty urban warehouses and legendary Washington traditions, then take some time this weekend to check out two of the more culturally diverse places to be found within the District’s auspicious confines—Maine Avenue Fish Market and Capital City Market, also known as the D.C. Farmer’s Market.

Since 1794, the Maine Avenue Fish Market has provided patrons with everything from stone crabs, crawfish and oysters to more exotic species that you wouldn’t find in your local grocery store. Located a short walk from the Jefferson Memorial, the Maine Avenue Fish Market is most accessible by car or bike, though taking the Metro to Smithsonian will put you within reach. Not that the place is hard to find—you’ll smell it a mile away. It sits right on the Potomac on a set of floating barges, though they stopped receiving boat shipments in the 1960s. Today, trucks bring in fresh seafood daily.

There are a bunch of loud, obnoxious vendors hawking some of the freshest seafood in the city. It’s a smelly and wet urban fish market, a true holdover from days gone by—they’ll even clean or fry your fish for you on the spot if you ask. You’ll meet Maryland hillbillies and Hispanic fishermen, and you might just step on a live crab that’s escaped from its crate. But whether you feel like buying some flounder or just hanging out with real D.C. folk, it’s worth a visit any day of the week. I recommend buying some fresh crabcakes from Pruitt’s Seafood and chowing down right there. Or buy half a dozen oysters from Captain White’s and let them slide them down raw, or with maybe a little Tabasco sauce. Yeah, baby.

A bit farther away is the D.C. Farmers’ Market. A small and decrepit warehouse district located in a grittier section of Northeast off Florida Avenue, the Farmers’ Market boasts dozens of wholesale food outlets, as well as a handful of second-hand shops and dollar-stores. If you want ethnic food in Washington, this is the place to shop, as there are Chinese, Middle-Eastern, Italian and African grocers—all of whom have hoses, as all good urban grocers should.

The best store here is probably Litteri’s, the city’s oldest Italian food store. Since 1932, Litteri’s has been importing specialty foods from all regions of Italy at great prices. They boast over 80 brands of olive oil and 30 brands of balsamic vinegar, as well as shelves and shelves of wine. Louis the butcher might even let you sample his fine meats and cheeses if you ask nicely. Try the provolone, or a little slice of proscuitto ends. For Italian food in Washington, this is the stop.

There you have it: If you love to eat but can’t afford any more Dean & Deluca, try out two Washington landmarks for a cheaper, tastier shopping experience.

The Main Avenue Fish Market is located where Maine Ave. intersects the Potomac River. The Capital City Market is at New York Ave. and Sixth St. N.E.



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