They say it takes at least two years for style-changing runway fashions to trickle down the couture ladder to their toned-down, department-store offspring. The trends that appear on the street, recently characterized by ruffles, shoulder-baring tops and hoop earrings, are the diluted and more practical versions of their over-the-top runway cousins. However, as soon as a style becomes popular enough to appear on every street corner, it is dismissed from vogue status. The fashion world moves quickly through phases, staying fresh and ahead of the curve to maintain authority, and the newest big development is the revival of ‘90s fashion.
Each season, big names on the design scene try to shock audiences with new styles. Previous eye-opening attempts include innovations such as plaid trousers overlaid with floral prints and high heels worn with ankle socks. In the world of fashion, where no entity stands alone, every era is influenced by those before, and what is new to one generation is often considered old hat by another. Runway looks are never lifted directly from their predecessors, but are rather the bastardized offspring of the best-remembered styles. In the ‘80s fever of the last few years, the flattering banded-waist shirts and tiered skirts have been widespread, whereas the incredibly unflattering, high-waisted, front-pleated slacks, clearly the shame of the ‘80s design world, have lived on only in John Hughes films such as Sixteen Candles.
As we brace for the upcoming ‘90s revival, we must hope that only the most tasteful elements of the era will make a comeback on runways and among high-end designer retailers. As pioneers from such lines as Dolce & Gabbana and Jean Paul Gaultier intended, their fall fashions do hold a certain shock value, tapping into what has most recently been considered “dated.” Now that the top names are recycling those styles, their reuse and reinvention has been legitimized for the masses.
This fall’s Neiman Marcus catalogue, “The Book,” a primary source of off-the-runway couture, describes this season as a return to feminine intricacy, which manifests itself in accessory and detail. While ruffle has been the flair of choice and bold lines and colors have set trends, they are being slowly phased out this season. In their stead we can expect plenty of lace, crochet and ribbons, typically used to create an empire waist. This higher waistline challenges the focus on the low-slung jeans and banded tops that have dominated popular fashion in the last five years. In contrast with the aforementioned unflattering high-waisted 80s pants, this updated look makes for a clean-cut, pulled together ensemble. Marc Jacobs’ fall line captures this sophisticated feminine allure with silk blouses, wool skirts and a touch of aquamarine for color.
Along with a return to detail comes a renewed emphasis on graphic designs and prints of all types. Animal print, a pattern that is beginning to seem universal and timeless, has made a perhaps premature comeback. Only about five years after its last big high, tiger-print, cheetah and snakeskin have returned swiftly enough for people to still own, and break out, their animal-styled accessories. Expect to see plenty of these prints on dresses, pants, purses and even sleeveless mock turtlenecks, which have also made a return. Graphic prints, which tend to be colorful and asymmetrical, are scattered over t-shirts, chiffon dresses and even transparent button-up blouses, worn over bras, which are reminiscent of the early episodes of “Friends.” Along with the animal sensibilities comes fur detail, used for collars, wraps and trim. Neiman Marcus’ online store has an exclusive sale on a pair of cheetah-print gloves with pink fur trim. Pink is the color of choice in faux-fur, appearing also on a stylish cropped jacket by Gucci.
Shoe designs are often a telltale mark of growing trends. While pointy-toed shoes have dominated the market in women’s—and some men’s- footwear, designers are becoming experimental with toe design, returning to the ‘90s fashion of the round foot, also expressed in vintage-looking ‘50s kicks. Stiletto heels, ever present in women’s shoes, have had an especially popular run to complement the pointy-toed style. Chunky heels, of the sort commonly seen in films such as Clueless, can also be found in this fall’s lineup. Platform shoes, which seemed to be on the way out are now, fittingly, part of this ‘90s phase as well. Though for now they appear with tastefully small heels, platforms can be expected to get taller as the trend expands.
If you only now bought your first pair of pointy heels or worry that someone might call you out on wearing that ruffly short skirt, do not fret. The changes occurring are slow-moving, and will not begin to influence college budget-couture for a few years. Though on some lofty plane of superstar conscience, a pointy toe might not fly for much longer, we here in the real world can continue with life as we know it, wardrobe intact.
