As temporary residents of the District, many Georgetown students have little knowledge of the history of classic but below-the-radar area restaurants. Straits of Malaya, a tranquil and relaxed refuge with an authentic Malaysian menu, is no exception.
Visitors are treated like old friends and understandably so: The restaurant is usually filled with repeat patrons. During the 1990’s, Straits boasted a devoted clientele and a settled feel in its Dupont neighborhood. In 1999, owner Larry Tan took a five-year break to take care of a sick parent. Old friends and food lovers were ecstatic when Tan again opened the kitchen this May. Building on an already successful past, Straits is undoubtedly reaching a new prime.
Located at 18th and T Streets, Straits attracts many of its first-time visitors as overflow from the very popular Lauriol Plaza, a more polished Georgetown students’ favorite Mexican restaurant, Cactus Cantina. Visitors are often lured to Straits and its unique food upon realizing that an hour-long wait stands between them and their margaritas.
In nice weather, the sparsely-furnished dining room is just a holding bay for the wonderful rooftop seating. After rubbing Buddha’s belly for good luck-the host recommends it-visitors are invited to climb the stairs up to the roof. Upon arrival, teams of waiters and waitresses are sure to ask whether or not you’ve been there before. The waiters will explain to you that entrees are served as they are finished. Also, there’s no need for a knife; it’s Malaysian tradition to skip that part. Forks and spoons are all you’ll need to dig in.
Straits’ menu is filled with authentic Malaysian cuisine-the Five Spice Roll appetizer is one of Tan’s Malaysian mother’s favorite family recipes. Food is served family-style; one entree is plenty for two.
Tan’s menu suggests starting with their signature cocktail, the Singapore Sling. Pink and innocent-looking, this drink packs a secret punch but adds an energetic compliment to the cuisine. It’s just strong enough to loosen you up for some serious eating. Dishes like Cha Kway Teow, the chef’s favorite dish, are conveniently numbered on the menu, so you won’t have to brush up on your Malay to order. The menu describes Cha Kway Teow as “broad fresh rice noodles stir-fried with chili paste, mushroom sauce, bean sprouts and chicken.” There is no beef on the menu, as Tan’s menu corresponds with the lack of red meat in the Malaysian diet. The rest of the menu is composed of various Malaysian-style chicken, shrimp, scallop and fish entrees.
If meat’s not your thing, they’ve got you in mind too. Nearly all of the entrees can be served as vegetarian dishes, along with tofu, if desired. Even the dessert menu keeps you on your toes; servers suggest trying the Fried Jack Fruit, a delicacy in Malaysia that tastes great when fried.
Most of these dishes are priced around $14 (lowest $11, most expensive $22). Remembering the fact that the portions are meant to be shared, Straits offers an economical choice for dining out. The staff at Straits will be anxiously waiting to meet, greet and feed you.
Located at 1836 18th St., NW. Open Sunday-Thursday 5:30 to 10:30, Friday-Saturday 5:30 to 11.
