In a world where even T-shirts are organic, it seems only natural that people would shy away from processed pork products. The push towards all things organic has lead to a rash of quasi-healthy gourmet retreats in New York like Heartbeat, which serves up organic cuisine and goat’s milk gelato, and Josie’s, a red-meat-free zone, which has drawn quite a following with its spicy black soy bean dumplings. The D.C. selection is somewhat more limited, but the best organic fare can be found at the delicately delicious but outrageously expensive Nora and Asia Nora.
Nora was revolutionary. Not only was it the first certified organic restaurant in the country, it also realized that low-calorie, tasteless foods do not always make for a healthy diet. Nora understands that food is only as healthy as the quality of the ingredients. The autumn squash soup with exotic spices, vanilla froth, toasted pepitas, raisin pur?e and pumpkin oil was rich, spicy, salty from the pumpkin seeds and rich green oil and just a little sweet from the raisins and vanilla.
When soup and a small, basic salad cost $25, I expect an elaborate production. And while the food certainly delivers, the wait staff tends to overact. Before removing my dish, the waiter asked, “Are you done enjoying?”
The main dining room, once a 19th century grocery store, has a high ceiling and white walls covered with patchwork quilts. The Garden Room, a private room with exposed brick walls and a glass ceiling, is perfect on a clear night.
But, proud or not, there is no excusing the way Nora’s waiters prance around with their noses in the air all evening. While very knowledgeable, one waiter answered questions in a tone of voice more suitable for a kindergarten teacher telling children to share rather than telling a 50-year-old man what Bocconcini is (mini-balls of fresh Mozzarella.) On one evening, either the waiter or the kitchen forgot my six-person table’s entire order. We received no explanation or even apology for our entrees which took over two hours and two reminders to arrive.
Each time I say I will never go back, but it is just so delicious that I’ve been four times. The filet mignon was so tender I could cut it with a butter knife, and it was served with ragout of chanterelles (rich mushrooms) and charred onion, baby turnips, root vegetables and truffled jus. The meat was cooked exactly to a steak house’s medium rare, and the sauce was so earthy and salty that I couldn’t help but dip every bite in it. Of course, a steak should be good when you’re shelling out $30 for it.
With the cheapest salad priced at $11, it’s the kind of place to go only when the parents come to town. They can raise their glasses of $250 Pinot Noir and toast you and your fabulous Georgetown education. Worth every penny, isn’t it?
