As I step into the vast, dimly lit dining room that bears an odd resemblance to a West Elm catalogue, I breathe a sigh of relief. There are no hookahs, belly dancers, or painfully colorful carpets in sight—the trademarks, it seems, of many popular Middle Eastern restaurants. Instead, soft background music, classy décor, and a chic yet relaxed atmosphere serve to make Zaytinya the ideal environment for dabblers in Mediterranean cuisine.
Located just a few blocks from the White House, the place is at first imposing. Two gigantic blue banners adorn the tall, pearl-white columns that guard its entrance. Each elegant banner, in solid light-blue letters, reads, “Zaytinya”—Turkish for “olive oil.”
Fortunately, the friendliness of the staff quickly overcomes the pretentious first impression. I sit down at the end of a rectangular, ebony table decorated with cream-colored candles and take a look around. The interior is contemporary, but warm: an angular fireplace, a few displays of geometric vases along the walls and design chandeliers hanging from the ceiling. The people are well dressed, but the ambience is casual. A server then approaches and gives a brief introduction. The restaurant specializes in Greek, Turkish and Lebanese cooking, both traditional and modern. It prides itself in its extensive selection of mezze—appetizer-like meals that come in small ceramic plates of the same name, unique in the D.C. area.
After recommending three or four dishes per person, the waiter departs, returning moments later with one of the highlights of the dining experience at Zaytinya—the bread. Served hot, this ultra-thin, superior version of a pita is perfect to eat either by itself or with the available dip and is completely free. It’s a welcome bonus at places like this one, where getting three or four five-to-10 dollar portions can get expensive.
It takes about three refills of bread (each accompanied with an outburst of joy) before the mezze finally arrive. From basic vegetable platters to meat and poultry to seafood, the restaurant truthfully boasts that it has “something for everyone.” The menu comprises typical Mediterranean recipes such as hummus, couscous and falafel, while also offering some foods specific to certain cultures. “Kotopoulo Youvetsi,” chicken with ouzo in a tomato sauce, is a nice Greek twist on an otherwise common meal, while “Labneh”, a type of strained yogurt garnished with rosemary and olive oil, is authentically Lebanese. A few desserts are also available, most notably the Turkish Coffee Chocolate, a bittersweet chocolate flan dressed in espresso syrup. It’s a nice ending to a very enjoyable light dinner.
To be honest, “light dinner” seems to be the theme of the restaurant. I walked out feeling satisfied but not entirely full. Devotees of plentiful portions need not take the trouble of spending the extra cash. Nonetheless, Zaytinya remains the perfect place for long-time fans, as well as those not yet exposed to Middle Eastern cuisine.
Editor’s Note (c. 2015): The author of this piece has retroactively requested anonymity. Please contact Editor@GeorgetownVoice.com with any questions.
