You don’t get much British food over here in the United States. That’s probably because jolly old England’s starchy, overcooked culinary offerings tend to be something less than transcendent. However, this gray and mushy reputation can be overcome when you’re using fresh, local ingredients and a little ingenuity, which is exactly what the people over at CommonWealth have done.
Conveniently located right outside of the Columbia Heights metro stop, CommonWealth is one of the newer additions to the area’s recent restaurant boom. Its menu, which features pub food that is “British-inspired and American-bred,” is extensive and exciting. Instead of following the standard appetizer-entrée-desert formula, diners pick from headings like “pots, pies & pasties” and get to pair their “mains” with “trimmings” and “puddings.”
The wealth of options is a little bit overwhelming, but chances are whatever you order will be good, and the portions are generous enough for your dining companions to try as well. British food is all about basics, and when done well, there’s no beating it. The fish of the fish-‘n’-chips combo was golden brown and crispy on the outside, and flaky and tender on the inside. Depending on how you like your fries cooked, the chips may leave something to be desired. Though the dense wedges of lightly fried potato were hearty, they didn’t offer the contrast in texture that us Yankees are used to.
The London broil sang in a sea of salty Worcestershire-based gravy, and the bangers and mash were mild, but very simply yummy. Side dishes bring a lot of pizzazz and some much-needed greenery to CommonWealth’s tables. The mushy peas with just a hint of mint were a revelation, but the bubble and squeak was the biggest disappointment of the night—the cabbage and carrots were choked by all the bacon and potato that shared the frying space.
It’s easy to run up a hefty tab at CommonWealth—there are so many beers to try, and all the food sounds so good! The restaurant’s claim to being “the people’s gastropub” doesn’t quite hold up once you realize you’ve just shelled out $30 for two courses. But push your impeding poverty from your mind and indulge in a sticky toffee pudding. You hiked all the way to the Heights—you deserve it.
CommonWealth is located at 1400 Irving St NW, Washington DC 20010. They can be reached at 202-265-140
