Adjacent to the Mall, the White House, and Pennsylvania Avenue’s countless white-marble federal edifices, Del Frisco’s Grille is everything you would expect of a corporate-esque steakhouse that lives by the maxim “Meat Up. Drink Up.”
From the Grille’s entrance, where patrons are met with a wall of wine behind a well-dressed team of hostesses, to the restaurant’s main room, where high ceilings are countered with an array of stylishly designed booths, Del Frisco’s Grille tries to bring a sleeker edge to a classic American menu. But while its menu succeeds in offering a creative collection of alternatives on traditional American dishes, Del Frisco’s disappoints in an overall gimmicky vibe that comes across as trying too hard.
From the first interactions with Del Frisco’s staff, over-eagerness sets the establishment’s tone. Not only was there an abundance of hostesses behind the front desk, but the waitstaff adds to that overly-attentive feeling by pushing appetizer and wine options from the moment they pass out the menus. And while the servers’ attention to detail in refilling the water glasses is impeccable, a lack of subtlety in ensuring that all aspects of the meal pleases borders on burdensome.
This excessive enthusiasm further manifested itself in the restaurant’s aesthetic. Puns and proverbs abound on wall hangings, which include phrases like “Do Right & Feed Every Man.” Set as the sole decorations, these sayings would not be completely out of place with Del Frisco’s attention to organic and fresh offerings, like free-range chickens from Bell & Evans All Natural Farms.
However, these adages hang alongside kooky art, including a framed painting of a leopard print high-heel, making Del Frisco’s feel as if the restaurant went through an identity crisis in transit from its home location in Dallas. Del Frisco’s seems unfortunately caught between trying to appeal to D.C.’s crowd of glitzy young professionals while subscribing to a brand of consumer-consciousness that seems artificially manufactured by the restaurant’s décor.
The menu’s titles, which are alternatively clever and cheesy, complete the gimmicky feeling. Small starter plates to share are “food to fight over.” And salads aren’t just lettuce, but “ruffage.” Sides bring a southern flair to the menu as a “lil’ somethin’ somethin’” to further confuse Del Frisco’s culinary steakhouse identity.
Service, décor, and the arbitrariness of the menu aside, Del Frisco’s is delicious, if a little overpriced. Signature steaks do not dip below $30, but “two-fisted eats,” including burgers and grilled cheese, are flavorful and more reasonable at about $15 each. The farmhouse-grilled cheese sandwich artfully combines aged cheddar, Gruyere, and Mornay sauce on perfectly toasted bread, and is complimented by a roasted tomato bisque, classing up this traditional combination.
The lamb burger is another delectable alternative, served with roasted tomatoes and a fresh Tzatziki sauce. However, the burger’s side of sweet potato fries, accompanied by a cutesy miniature bottle of ketchup, outshined this entrée. The subtly spicy farmer’s market veggie burger also stood out, but unmentioned pickles on this dish could be a deal-breaker for some. With an almost overwhelming number of options with enormous proportions—the menu does begin, “Hungry for Dinner”—Del Frisco’s food options overall are mostly hit or miss.
If nothing else, Del Frisco’s Grille offers generally pleasing cuisine in a convenient location. But if this imported Dallas steakhouse is going to survive in the nation’s capital, it needs to give us something worth returning to, even if it means putting up with helicopter waiters.
