Given the predominance of exotic, ethnic style eateries opening by the dozen in the District, The Brixton, an upscale British pub on U St., may seem out of place. However, by paying tribute to the diversity of modern London and offering an extensive selection of British beers and spirits, The Brixton manages to bring a taste of authentic London to D.C., if not offering us the tastiest or most well-balanced bite.
The restaurant is separated into three levels. Crystal light fixtures and warm, inviting booths adorn the first floor, holding to the host’s promise of elegant dining. The wait staff is well dressed, the ambient music classical. A long bar frames the room, if only to emphasize that here, drinking trumps dining.
A carpeted staircase leads to the second level, which brings together casual dining and a décor boasting antler chandeliers, humble tables, and regal booths. Screens playing footie and cricket greet the thirsty and work-weary. It seems like the perfect place to stop by for a lunchtime beer on a rainy afternoon. Unfortunately, The Brixton only opens at five—one of several management mistakes that threaten to prematurely shut its cardinal red doors.
The top level is an open-air deck with two bars, space for live music, and decent views of a non-existent cityscape. On a Monday, it’s dead, but the potential for a booming happy hour scene is palpable. Alas, if only The Brixton had happy hour specials.
The drink menu is classic and unquestionably British. For beer, Belgian and German brews are few and far between; The Brixton prides itself on brands from the British Isles. Of the eight beers on draft and 16 from the bottle, the sweet hoppiness of the Belhaven Twisted Thistle IPA delighted, while I got lost in the dark and muddled frothiness of the Wells Bombardier Bitter.
The cocktail menu also stuck to classic British sensibilities, with cider, ginger beer, whisky, and, of course, gin making multiple appearances. Of note was the Julep—brimming with fresh mint, the inviting and refreshing Tanqueray-rooted staple worthy of an evening on a veranda at Downton Abbey.
In the British fashion, once you’re good and drunk, time for some food. The appetizer options include a Scotch egg and the house favorite, samosas, but I opted for squid stuffed with black pudding (puréed blood sausage) and cherry tomatoes. An herbaceous and rather spicy sauce lifted the plate visually and in flavor, as did a garnish of coriander sprigs. A salad of crabmeat and avocado on a leaf of butter lettuce pleased as well, though was lacking in texture. Overall the appetizers are eclectic, but none really complement the entrées or each other to create a cohesive meal.
For the main course, The Brixton’s menu is anchored with British favorites like Fish and Chips and Petit Beef Wellington. But Kerala Curry Tiffin, PEI Mussels, and Caribbean Spiced Australian Lamb Shank unite the flavors of the former British Empire in a modern pub experience. The Fish and Chips, made with haddock and served with crispy potato wedges, a fresh summer salad, and a malt vinegar remoulade, is impressive. Despite the fried preparation, The Brixton manages to lighten a usually oily fish for a deliciously juicy bite. Moving from sea to land, their Jamaican Jerk Chicken is cooked beautifully, with a crispy glazed skin, but the heavy mash of plantains, mangoes, and currants overwhelmed the plate in a starchy-sweet heaviness.
I could go on and on about The Brixton’s mistakes: awkward American rock playlists, a poorly worded menu foggier than a winter in Brighton, an overeager and uninformative service staff, and an overall lack of focus in its menu and décor. But I don’t care. Modern London doesn’t have to define itself around one culture, or one style and neither does The Brixton. Food, beer, friends, cheers.
