New Yorkers take pizza seriously. Aware of this, Mike Cordero, a Bronx native, aims to introduce the D.C. area to the classic pizza he grew up with with his new restaurant, Bronx Pizza and Subs. Though part of an overcrowded pizza market in Clarendon, Bronx Pizza clings to its New York roots in everything it does, from the décor to the dough, proving to DMV residents why Domino’s just doesn’t cut it for the prize of a premium pie.
Bronx stands across the street from the Clarendon Metro station, beckoning the hungry traveler with meat and cheese hanging behind the windows, under bright lights that proclaim “NY STYLE PIZZA BY THE SLICE.” In typical New York fashion, the inside of the restaurant boisterously boasts the owner’s Bronx heritage: photographs of New York and Italian-American icons adorn the walls—the Godfather, Scarface, the Sopranos, the Rat Pack, the George Washington Bridge, and of course the Yankees (who, I assume, dominate the giant television in the corner on game days). The interior serves as a charming homage to New York culture, but it begs the question of whether the New York pride is a gimmick: Does Bronx Pizza cater to misplaced New Yorkers who long for a taste of home, or to Virginians who don’t know what they’re missing?
For what it’s worth, Bronx does serve decent pizza. In this casual restaurant, $2.75 gets you a jumbo cheese slice—hopefully fresh, but most likely reheated from behind the counter. The pizza definitely plays the part of a New York-style slice. The cheese and sauce complemented each other well, and the slice wasn’t too heavy on either. The crust was thin and crispy with a soft center; it easily held its integrity when folded in half. Bronx may not hold a candle to the pizza powerhouses of Cordero’s childhood home, but it makes a satisfying slice.
Bronx sells a few varieties of pie, ranging from Sicilian to barbecue chicken to make-your-own—and all named after different streets in the Bronx, if the customer needs one more reminder of where this pizza draws its roots. The menu also offers calzones, subs, hoagies, and pasta—a few with standout names like the Tony Soprano Over Stuffed and the Michael Corleone Chicken Alfredo.
If your home is Arthur Avenue, Bronx Pizza is nothing to write home about. However, it’s a good place to go with friends if you want to satisfy a pizza craving. Late-night revelers in Arlington will also appreciate Bronx’s hours of operation, as it’s open until 3 a.m. Monday through Saturday (and until 1 a.m. on Sunday). It’s not New York, but Bronx Pizza is making itself at home in the D.C. area. Now if only Georgetown could realize that Tuscany isn’t known for its pizza and that Domino’s is a game best played with grandma.
