At Barcelona Wine Bar, a bull’s head hangs on the wall, flames roar in the open kitchen, and rows upon rows of glistening wine glasses create a curtain of reflecting light. Rough exposed wood panelling lines the interior, and a wall of glass looks out onto the patio, where a fire is burning in the open oven. The tables are small and modern, maintaining a touch of tradition in their wooden look, but creating a sense of openness with sharp angles and minimalistic wrought-iron legs. While the wood is dark and earthy, the glass wall and high black ceiling open up the rest of the space to create a grounded, harmonious balance between the light and the heavy, the earthy and the spacious. Every aspect of the place is perfectly poised.
Located on 14th St., Barcelona Wine Bar is sheltered behind a tree of rather large girth which effectively creates a partition that blocks off the outside world. The dishes at Barcelona encompass traditional Spanish offerings like patatas bravas, pintxos de puerco, gambas al ajillo, and paella. The menu even offers the enticing prospect of trying mussels al diablo, or devil’s mussels. Head chef Pedro Garzon, a descendant of Spanish olive growers, has had years of experience with various European cooking styles, and uses that experience to create an elegant menu at Barcelona.
The first plate to come out was the sublime Manchego sheep’s cheese, a traditional variety made in La Mancha and served on a wooden board with a fig and port spread. While at first glance the hard, brittle texture of the cheese made it appear extremely dry, it turned out to be unexpectedly creamy, just sharp enough to pair well with the fig jelly by not so strong that it overpowered all else.
After the Manchego, the spinach-chickpea Cazuela was something else entirely. I thought I knew what this kind of dish wood taste like. I love cooked spinach in everything, and I am past the point of no return when it comes to my daily consumption of hummus. However, never have I had a dish like the Cazuela. The spinach was cooked to perfection, but the best part was the creamy sauce inside each leaf, a warm, voluptuous spread.
The salmon was delicious as well, cooked just to the point of melting in your mouth, and swathed in a honey-sweet sauce of braised leeks that complemented the fish. However, my adventure with the broccoli rabe did not go very well. The stocky end was repulsively bitter, while the leaves were unbearably spicy. It appeared well-prepared, but my taste buds simply couldn’t cope.
On a sweeter note, Barcelona Wine Bar also offers an assortment of typical Spanish desserts, like the famous flan catalan andchurros y chocolate.
The restaurant may lack a certain eccentricity and character that can be found at other tapas bars in the D.C. area, but what it lacks in uniqueness it more than makes up for in tastefulness and elegance. While Barcelona may not be the ideal weeknight venue for a cash-strapped college student—each small plate runs from about $4 to $10, and you need several to even whet your appetite—it makes for a sophisticated weekend outing. And with a full sherry menu, the classic caña, and a house vermut, Hemmingway would feel right at home at Barcelona Wine Bar.
