At first glance, chef Michael Schlow’s new restaurant Tico might be mistaken for a recording studio. When designing this new gem of an eatery at the heart of U St., Schlow took careful consideration of an oft-overlooked aspect of restaurants—acoustics. Tico has a ceiling that is perforated and soundproofed to optimize the acoustics of the room. According to Tico’s manager, Steve Uhr, this architecture enables the music to be felt throughout the eatery, while still enabling diners to converse at a normal volume. For Chef Schlow, what you hear is just as important as what you eat.
The restaurant itself is a trendy juxtaposition of regal panache and industrial chic. If you glance upward, the brown, moulded ceiling and elegant lighting evoke a sense of refined style, however, a glance around the room yields a completely different feeling. Paint stains cover the exposed brick walls and large concrete columns in the center of the restaurant. Graffiti adorns the walls and three large, sliding panels of artwork. These contrasting styles create an ambiance that is casual and sophisticated.
The word “tico” is a Spanish colloquial term for a Costa Rican native, but the menu is not comprised of Costa Rican cuisine. Instead, Tico tries to create a melange of American cuisine. The dishes have Hispanic influences, which lends some moderate spice to the small but rich portions. They are designed almost like tapas––many dishes can be ordered and shared throughout the table, which also reinforces the restaurant’s theme, according to Uhr, of creating community around its cuisine.
The menu offers a diversity of options, broken down into some amusing (and bemusing) categories, such as “Ceviche, Small Plates, Tacos,” and “A La Plancha.” All dishes, except those in the “Entree” section, come in the relatively small, sharable portions. And for any table that is still unsure of what to order, the menu offers a “Can’t Decide?” section. This option allows the chef complete freedom to decide the dishes for your table, with prices varying based on the amount of food requested. However, this choice is not the most economical ordering strategy, with prices ranging from $35 to $85 per person.
The food, unlike its pricing, for the most part does not disappoint. The scallop ceviche with avocado dressing and green onion pico holds a smooth, spicy flavor, topped with the added crunch of crispy brown rice. Sweet, spicy, and salty harmoniously come together in their sweet corn with jalapeños and smoked bacon. The homemade chorizo more so resembles tender steak medallions, rather than the traditional saucisson approach. Surprisingly, the beef tacos are below par, calling Schlow’s commitment to the basics into question. At times, the concept of simplicity is taken too far. The desserts appeared too derivative to be worth considering, with one option being just a plate of cookies and milk. Despite these weak points, Tico’s ingenuity and refinement ultimately shines through.
Schlow is a prolific chef and he’s expressed the best qualities of his other restaurants, including Tico’s Boston location, in D.C.. Schlow’s envisioned Mexican flare and Hispanic influences are clearly evident in all of his dishes, with the restaurant reflecting a style of trend and sophistication as unique as the food itself. Though Tico may initially appear to be a band’s back room, it is instead an masterful manifestation for Latin American culinary creations.
Tico DC
1926 U St. NW
4 pm to 12 am
www.ticodc.com
