You yearn for dietary change. On these pages you’ll find critiques of restaurants in local neighborhoods. Our critics have been selected based upon a variety of factors: They hate cafeteria food, they have money to splurge, and they are connoisseurs of the finer,and cheaper, places to eat in D.C. With this in mind, they have set forth on a mission to report on their local gastronomic favorites. We don’t respect the reviews of pretentious food critics that pepper their paragraphs with words like “magnificent” and “exquisite.” Our student critics picked restaurants with the student in mind. Our spots range from the trendy to the mundane, from traditional American fare to exotic African cuisine. But most important, they all have student-friendly prices. Discovering great places to eat entails discovering the diversity of D.C.’s neighborhoods. So, check these places out, explore the neighborhoods and stuff your face.
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BEN’S CHILI BOWL – 1213 U St. N.W. – by Cindy Fisher
Forget Hormel’s in a can. Forget Wendy’s in a styrofoam bowl. Forget Fresh Field’s organic kind in a reusable mug. If it is chili that one desires, there is no better place to satisfy your craving than Ben’s Chili Bowl. A living archive of D.C.’s past, Ben’s offers an extensive homemade menu that no palate can refuse.
“Black owned and staffed since 1958”, Ben’s Chili Bowl has changed little since serving its first chili dog. Clientele has ranged from the likes of Miles Davis, Bill Cosby and Martin Luther King, Jr. Pictures of celebrities, family and friends alike adorn the walls, and with old-time red vinyl booths and counter stools, its decor has a friendly cafeteria feel to it without the line. And while some might call it “fast food” because the service is quick and the food is hot, it is anything but the unfriendly corporate rush that McDonald’s prides itself on.
The pride is in the food. Age-old recipes of chili con carne propel the Bowl, but there’s more on the menu than just, well, chili. Hot dogs as well as burgers and half-smoked sausages sizzle constantly on public display. Sandwiches and breakfast are served as well, but of course the reason to visit (and frequent) Ben’s is because of the chili cheese fries and the thick frosty shakes. The chili is mildly spicy and hearty, and the shakes are a meal in themselves, but are of course a perfect accompaniment to any of Ben’s meals. Ben’s does offer a vegetarian option. Their veggie chili substitutes soy for beef, and their veggie burgers leave nothing to be missed, especially with all the fixin’s. Carnivore or not, there’s always something to choose from.
Rounding out Ben’s amazing food are the location and price, two other factors that seems to perpetuate its success. It is conveniently located across the street from the U St/Cardozo Metro stop and within two or three blocks of popular music clubs, the 9:30 and Black Cat. Likewise, its late night operation makes it a prime target and fortunate option for any post-club hunger pangs. In addition, after a night of dishing out the dollars, it’s a bargain for the quality. Most items cost less than $4 and suffice as an entire meal.
Ben’s Chili Bowl is a D.C. monument not to be missed. Try to walk past it?and be lured inside by the smell and r&b/funk jams on the jukebox. As Cosby might have said if it weren’t for those pudding pops, there’s always time for c-h-i-l-i.
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BAJA FRESH – 1333 New Hampshire Ave. N.W. in Dupont Circle – by J?rgen Cleemann
“California-style” is the name of the game at Baja Fresh. As is “freshness.” And a number of other things. “California-style” preparation?just one of many games that staff and clientele collaborate to create at Baja Fresh?stands out as something refreshingly unique. As far as I can tell, it refers to a certain non-greasiness, a dedication to freshness that, coming as it does from a restaurant chain’s corporate propaganda, seems almost eerily sincere. The freshness of the ingredients, evident in every bite of their quickly-dispensed product, is the result of adherence to a number of rules that are displayed prominently above the counter where one orders and receives his or her food. “No Microwaves,” reads one. “No Can Openers.” “No Freezers.”
The fare at Baja Fresh is Mexican, and the prices are reasonable. The gems of the menu are its burritos, which range in complexity from the hearty Bean and Cheese to the colossal Burrito Dos Manos. My favorite is the Baja Burrito, which adds your choice of grilled chicken or steak to a heap of rice, beans, guacamole and salsa. The menu also includes a variety of tacos, salads and unique creations.
Beyond the food, Baja Fresh possesses several features that help earn its praise. Of those features, none is more worthy of mention than the salsa bar. There are four varieties to choose from, and their differences are decided in terms of very unique and distinct flavors, not just subtle gradations from less to more hot (although there is that, as well).
Baja Fresh’s second most important non-food aspect is the excellent service, which, once again, is sort of creepy when it comes from a faceless corporation. Every interaction, from the handing-over of food to the holding-open of a trash can, comes with a smile.
One final word of warning: Baja Fresh is best experienced without people from California, who will spend the entire meal pointing out how much better everything about the restaurant is in California.
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QUICK PITA – 1210 Potomac St. N.W. in Georgetown – by Mike DeBonis
Finding a decent sandwich in Georgetown is a tricky proposition. There’s Subway?you’ve been there too many times. There’s Booey’s?the food is overrated and too expensive. Instead, choose the middle ground, both geographically and metaphorically. Choose Quick Pita, located under a dirty green awning on Potomac Street, halfway between M and Prospect Streets.
Put simply, Quick Pita has no ambience whatsoever, save for florescent lighting and the bell on the door. Chances are you won’t even be able to sit down. The approximately 80 square feet of floor space between the door and the counter feature a total of eight stools. So if you plan on patronizing Quick Pita at any time besides the wee hours of the morning, plan on walking your sandwich home with you.
But let’s face it; if you go to Quick Pita for the ambience, you’re missing the point. It’s cheap, it tastes good and it’s open anytime you might want to eat. As a cheerfully broke college student, those should be your only criteria.
The falafel is the best in Georgetown? soft, never too crispy, and stuffed with lettuce and cucumber. Carnivores can do even better with the Quick Pita Special, a tasty little number featuring grilled chicken and special sauce. The coup de grace is the mound of french fries wrapped inside. An unlikely stratagem, but a delicious one indeed! Beware, however, of the massive amounts of garlic. You may not taste it right away while eating it, but rest assured you’ll be tasting it all the way home.
Even better, you’ll still have enough pocket change for the Wisey’s guys?a sandwich and a drink goes for $5 or $6. Cooler than Subway, lighter than Philly Cheese, cheaper than Booey’s?it’s the choice for cheap eats .
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ALAMO GRILL – 1063 31st St. N.W. in Georgetown – by Brian Zuanich
Owners may have thought naming their restaurant after the legendary Alamo battle would resonate with customers looking for a genuine southwestern, Tex-Mex experience in a city where finding a genuine Tex-Mex experience is about easy as seeing the Alamo.
If so, they were right. Alamo Grill looks like a southwestern saloon out of an old Western movie where you’d find a couple of poker games, some singing and maybe even a couple of shoot-outs.
There are no shoot-outs, but expect to be serenaded (“La Cucaracha” is a particular favorite). Don’t expect any gambling?because getting excellent service is a sure thing. The waitstaff is friendly (at least one greets you before stepping inside the restaurant) and attentive. The only time you won’t find your waiter is when he’s singing.
The main dishes, though not spectacular, are above average. Try to save room for your meal, because the chips-and-dip are outstanding and, of course, complimentary. However much you do eat, chances are you’ll leave happy?most dishes are under $10, and even adding the large tip you’ll probably want to leave, it’s one of the better deals in D.C. Given its small size, Alamo Grill isn’t nearly as lively as Cactus Cantina but that hasn’t been a barrier to the younger clientele, who keep the restaurant full.
Those looking for reasonably priced Mexican food, a genuine Mexican experience, and who feel like venturing past Wisconsin Avenue, remember the Alamo Grill.
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THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY – 5345 Wisconsin Ave. N.W. in Friendship Heights – by Julia Cantone
The irony of my love for The Cheesecake Factory is that I really hate cheesecake. Of course, with a menu 19 pages long, finding something you like at the impressive two-story Mazza Gallerie establishment is hardly an issue. No, the real reasons I love The Cheesecake Factory have nothing to do with its dizzying array of scrumptious appetizers, burgers, pastas and salads.
I judge a restaurant based on three simple criteria: 1) Do they serve a good chicken sandwich? 2) Are the portions big enough that I, as a poor college student, will have enough left over for lunch later? and, most importantly, 3) Is the waitstaff receptive to a little friendly flirtation?
The Cheesecake Factory receives high marks on all counts. The Oscar’s Barbeque Chicken Sandwich is the perfect blend of crunchy fried onion, juicy grilled chicken and tangy sauce. When I get bored with that combination, the Blackened Chicken Sandwich, smothered in gooey Gouda, is an excellent substitute.
The portions at the Cheesecake Factory put other D.C. restaurants to shame. The pastas and salads are served in bowls the size of baby pools, and the brownie sundae is piled to gravity-defying heights. Most entrees are accompanied by a small mountain of french fries, rivaled in quality only by Mickey D’s. While your meal won’t be as cheap as something from, say, Little Cafe, the sheer volume of food should keep you happily munching for days.
You might expect that the waitstaff at a restaurant as busy as The Cheesecake Factory would be a little surly. Indeed, on a recent visit with my housemates, our waiter Alex seemed none too impressed with our smiles and witty banter as he poured our water. But persistence is key. By the time the appetizers arrived, our eye-batting had garnered us an extra-large basket of honey wheat bread and as we finished our desserts, Alex was eagerly chatting away about his summer in Europe, while two ladies seated nearby whispered angrily with the host. The last we saw of poor Alex, they were reprimanding him for his inattentiveness to their iced tea.
While there are a couple of annoying things about the Cheesecake Factory?their cheesy faux-Egyptian decor, for one, and the fact that you have to go at 11:30 a.m. on a Sunday if you want to be seated in under an hour?the quality and quantity of their food makes it well worth the bus trip up Wisconsin Avenue. Plus, the waiters are pretty cute.
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LA MADELEINE – 3000 M St. N.W. in Georgetown – by Ian Bourland
It is well known that the fair District was conceived by a Frenchman, to whom the city has dedicated a large train station. Accordingly, the District is peppered with all manner of French cuisine, ranging from nouveau-bistro to five-star extravaganzas to Au Bon Pain. Despite the breadth and nuance of the city’s French scene, many of its offerings may be lost on Joe Hoya, for whom, save for Dip Ball, many of these establishments are financially out of reach, too far away or, in the case of Au Pied du Cochon, not worth the attendant depravity and bewildering waitstaff.
Enter la Madeleine. Situated at 3000 M St. just past Barnes and Noble, students and neighborhood residents alike have a place in which to convene for a hyperbolic, unchallenging, and comfortably kitsch variation on the French experience. Sure, la Madeleine is a de facto chain that services much of the Maryland/Virginia area, but in its M Street incarnation, la Madeleine exists in its full glory.
La Madeleine is truly a boon to the students of the area. For the romantic, the charming atmosphere and exotic desserts will add a touch of smooveness to the repertoire. For the street urchins among the student body, the bread and jam are free, and if one plays his or her cards right, the invariably disheveled staff is usually receptive to pleas for free bowls of their exquisite soups. For everyone else, the buttery croissants and delectable greens add a certain je ne sais quoi to an afternoon of gazing haughtily upon pedestrian traffic as it passes on M Street.
And the best part? The coffee (in American and French roasts) is cheap, inexhaustible and kicks like a mule. So, if you are feeling the mid-winter doldrums, need a lift, or are just low on cash, la Madeleine and its semi-authentic French stylings will pull you through every time.
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MESKEREM – 2434 18th St. N.W. in Adams Morgan – by Will Cleveland
Meskerem stands out from the crowd of Ethiopian restaurants in Adams Morgan, having won numerous awards over the past two decades for both its setting and its kitchen. The reasons become quickly obvious. Natural light and subtle, homely colors fill the three understated dining rooms. Get a table on the uppermost floor if you can?there, patrons sit on low stools or chairs around large baskets. It may look uncomfortable, especially for the tall and lanky, but it is actually surprisingly relaxing. Artifacts and mats on the walls round out a charmingly simple d?cor.
Ethiopian food is served on large bread pancakes, and eaten by scooping the food with yet more bread. The bread, injera, is spongy and a bit sticky, and provided alongside the meal in folded triangles or rolls. The dishes themselves are usually pastes or thick stews prepared with lamb, chicken, chickpeas, lentils or any number of other ingredients. Meskerem’s menu ranges far and wide within these boundaries, providing dishes across the spice palate for carnivores and vegetarians alike. And, while the idea of eating just one item with fistfuls of bread may seem monotonous, it proves to be far from it. The flavors are exciting and varied, but never overpowering. Besides, if you go with a group, you can hardly be expected not to sample your neighbor’s meal.
Meskerem is hard to fault. It’s accessible, the service is prompt and friendly, and the dishes are all reasonably priced. This renowned restaurant is well within any student’s grasp.
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THAIPHOON – 2011 S St. N.W. in Dupont Circle – by Jennifer Ernst
Dining in trendy restaurants is hazardous. When atmosphere, buzz and/or clientele are the stuff of legend, enjoying a satisfying meal with good company is usually secondary to the restaurant “experience,” and experience generally wears thin after the first 20 minutes. This, however, does not mean that trendy Thaiphoon in Dupont Circle should be avoided.
There’s no doubt that Thaiphoon is trendy. It’s always crowded?one doesn’t so much walk to one’s table as one slaloms to it?and there always seems to be a wait, weeknight or weekend. The bar is cattle-car crowded and putting in a reservation usually involves taking an elbow to the gut from someone trying to get his or her coat off the rack. Patrons and waitstaff alike wear black; the lighting complements the sleek decor and the plates all arrive attractively festooned with various colorful garnishes. And most tellingly, “Thaiphoon” is a precious little name.
But it also has delicious Thai food for reasonable prices. The waiters and waitresses are rapid, efficient, and amenable to specific food requests: If you ask for your drunken noodles less spicy than normal, or with extra vegetables in place of the chicken, your food actually arrives meat-free and comparatively mild.
And the drinks?served in large balloon-shaped snifters and decorated with garnishes so large and elaborate that the inattentive are at risk to lose an eye?are great. The Thaiphoon cocktail, the Malibu Monsoon, the Tidal Wave, the Paradise on Earth: Who cares if you feel silly ordering them? Who cares if you feel sillier with the paper umbrella threatening your nasal passages? They’re delicious, inventive, well-mixed, potent, and they complement the food, not to mention the decor, the clientele and the buzz, perfectly.
Let’s hear it for trendy.
