When the Voice last checked up on Sticky Rice in January 2007, it was, in writer Chris Norton’s words, a “gutted brick rowhouse skeleton.” The Atlas District restaurant still is, at least at first glance. But behind the dingy, hole-in-the-wall façade is a vibrant and proudly quirky eatery that rivals some of the best food in D.C at a fraction of the price.
The restaurant is divided into two levels, with a sushi bar on top and an alcohol beneath it. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a seat at the sushi bar, where the possibly-alcoholic (it’s hard to tell whether or not they’re joking) hipster sushi chefs will entertain you with friendly chatter, as they skillfully turn balls of rice and chunks of fish into impressive dishes. More akin to chummy bartenders than the stereotypically stoic, intimidating sushi chefs, these guys are a vital part of the dining experience.
I started off with the bucket of tater tots that, yes, actually came in a bucket. I’m not entirely sure what tater tots have to do with Japanese cuisine, but I don’t really care. The greasy morsels were served with a creamy, spicy “secret sauce” that put all past, present, and future secret sauces to shame. Like the restaurant’s many random flourishes, this uncharacteristic appetizer works well.
Sticky Rice offers plenty of tried and true Japanese and Chinese standards, with a smattering of sushi rolls, sashimi, and noodle options, but each is spun off in interesting and modern ways. The signature Godzirra plate is roughly ten rolls arranged like a dragon on the plate, each piece a juxtaposition of creamy avocado and tofu cream cheese with crunchy shrimp.
Another specialty is the sticky balls (in both seafood and vegetarian iterations). Essentially rice and vegetables rolled up and deep-fried, the sticky balls are a playful re-imagining of tempura and rice balls that succeed through their varyingly crispy and sticky textures, aided by an addictive spicy sauce.
A very filling meal for three (including appetizers) cost under $45—quite a good deal in the District. Unfortunately, actually getting to the restaurant and back is a frustrating and time-consuming adventure: the nearest metro stop (the Red line’s Union Station) is a twenty-minute walk, and bus service (either on the X2 and X3) is spotty at best. Nonetheless, be sure to make the trip at least once during your time here.
