Leisure

This District ain’t big enough for more than one Kitchen

March 1, 2012


Amid the variety of D.C. restaurants springing up under the banner of organic and cruelty-free produce, District Kitchen manages to maintain a competitive advantage that differentiates it from the grass-fed herd. While this newest member of the Woodley Park restaurant community serves up what appears to be classic mid-Atlantic cuisine, the twist on traditional recipes and the ever-changing house specials add variety to the otherwise predictably bland buffet of green D.C. eateries.

Perhaps the most striking feature of the restaurant is its décor. While many D.C. establishments have adopted a similar minimalist style, District Kitchen takes the maintenance of its image to an extreme. From the naked bulbs arranged in chandeliers, which cast shadows onto the faded brick walls and aged wooden shelves at the bar, to the open candles on the tables illuminating the unadorned paper menus, District Kitchen holds a strict adherence to the style. With such complex focus on design, the menu’s simple offerings provide a stark contrast to the restaurant’s interior.

However, the dedication to details is visible in the establishment’s cooking as well. The vital ingredient to the success of District Kitchen is Drew Trautmann, part-owner and head chef. As he explains on the restaurant’s website, a focus on the “importance of pristine seasonal ingredients,” taught to him by award-winning Seattle chef Tom Douglas, allows him to “showcase ingredients at their peak.”

An emphasis on the quality of the produce makes the menu somewhat vague—“seasonal vegetables” or “ask your server” appear multiple times in every category from snacks to desserts. Still, the surprise ingredients, under Trautmann’s watchful eye, come together to exceed expectations. The District Salad, for instance, comes at this point in the year with iceberg lettuce—although the menu leaves room for any local greens—seasonal carrots, parsley, and Dijon vinaigrette. While this combination would not turn any heads at a standard restaurant, District Kitchen’s crisp, seasonal produce works with the peppery house vinaigrette to create a potent flavor that destroys any doubts about the quality of the ingredients.

Despite offering only eight choices, the main courses also fail to disappoint. The Angus steak, served on a bed of lettuce and parsley with a side of spiced mashed potatoes, puts many of the most prestigious steakhouses to shame. A slightly burnt crust creates an initial burst of sharp flavor that is quickly followed by the rich, tender texture of the meat’s center. District Kitchen offers a choice of two sauces to complement the steak: a traditional house steak sauce and a horseradish-based dip garnished with the same seasonal vegetables that accompany the restaurant’s dishes. The latter gives the steak a powerful kick that surprisingly does not overwhelm the meat’s otherwise mild flavor.

More of this luxury, however, comes at a hefty cost. The simple salad rings up at eight dollars, and the steak, which is based on the market price, can cost over $30. While frequent visits will empty a diner’s wallet, Trautmann’s quality ingredients and experienced style are well worth the price of District Kitchen’s dishes. Now, when your parents come to town, you can suggest something other than 1789.



Kirill Makarenko
Former Assistant Leisure Editor


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