This is Bagels Etc., a Dupont establishment that will celebrate its 40th anniversary this April. In my completely biased (but heartfelt) opinion, Bagels Etc. serves the best bagel.
When I vocalized this claim in the newsroom, it caused a stir. One Voice colleague said her local bagel shop in Boston reigned supreme. Some adamantly defended New York City bagels as incomparable to other ring-shaped posers. Among the East Coast metropoles, this carb source seems to cause much controversy and debate. The bagel is political. And what city is more political than D.C.?
The nation’s political machine runs on bagels. In 2023, Rep. Dan Goldman (D-N.Y.) launched a bagel caucus in Congress, a bipartisan event to taste test D.C.’s best-known bites. Government officials also fuel bagel businesses themselves. Jeff Zients, Biden’s former chief of staff, was a key investor in Call Your Mother—the first D.C. food establishment Biden visited after his inauguration.
However, unlike the dense $15 bagels at Call Your Mother, Bagels Etc. makes me actually want to call my mom. As a one-and-a-half generation Korean American, I was surprised to find Koreans selling bagels, a breakfast staple that rose to national fame thanks to Jewish immigrants and baker union organizing. Bagels Etc. epitomizes the spirit of American food tradition—one that was started and sustained by immigrants. This is a bagel that actually deserves presidential recognition.
Given my pretty much nonexistent Korean language capabilities, I nervously asked the owners for an interview. The owner, Judy Kang, delegated her son and store manager, SuChan Kang, to have a conversation with me.
SuChan told me his mom used to be a piano teacher and his dad worked at various 7-Elevens. Eventually, they found their way to bagels.
“Before it was a Jewish family that owned this, and I guess my dad came here to just learn. They sold it to us,” SuChan said. “A couple months ago, the previous owner called us because one of his family members came, and they saw this still running, and so he came to congratulate my dad. He was close to 100-something.”
Bagels Etc. is a long-standing Dupont staple, carrying on the legacy of its previous owners. They did not just “pop up” like trendy, line-forming chains such as the aptly-named PopUp Bagels opening on Wisconsin Avenue. Bagels Etc. stays true to tradition, one passed down from Jewish to Korean immigrants, focusing on freshly-baked bagels without fuss.
In addition to serving delicious bagels, the Kangs’ loyalty and dedication to service are evident in their hustle.
“We never close. Open 365 days a year,” SuChan said. “Even when it’s snowing outside, [my parents] sleep next door, and they come to work in the morning. They’re very dedicated. […] I realize that it’s not easy to do, and I’m trying to keep up with their expectations, and it’s never easy.”
As a cash-only business, I set aside “bagel bills.” My usual order—an everything bagel with egg, cheese, and sprouts plus a large coffee—totals $9, a friendlier price for broke college kids. Bagels Etc. also sells half-dozen bags of “day-old bagels” for around $4, which my roommates and I store in the freezer as if those rings of gluten could save us from an apocalypse.
Bagels Etc. not only keeps the bagel fresh and affordable, but also treats its customers like family. Judy explained their forgiving cash policy in English.
“We are cash only, everybody think ‘Uh oh, I don’t have any money,’” Judy said. “Don’t worry about it, next time you bring, if not, it’s okay. Donation, whatever.”
Their grace and kindness keep customers coming back. Switching to Korean and putting my comprehension skills to the test, Judy explained how one of their customers would bring their kids to get bagels. Then those kids grew up and got married, but continue to visit the shop. Now, they bring their own kids to Bagels Etc.
The Kangs’ bagels raise families. They don’t pander to tourists or social media marketing gimmicks. Bagels Etc., a long-standing local business, preserves the warmth of community and care. Especially with increasing militarization in the District, where the deployment of armed National Guard makes the city feel less welcoming and me feel less safe, businesses like Bagels Etc. retain a sense of home and comfort.
At Bagels Etc., orchids and green plants decorated with bagel ornaments line the windows and any available counter space. The efforts to enliven an urban space with plant life reminded me of my aunt, who decorates her Chicago coin laundry with orchids planted in recycled detergent bottles. I never expected to be reminded of my own family in a D.C. bagel shop. I asked SuChan: “Who is behind the greenery?” He said his mom and an employee, who has worked at Bagels Etc. for over 35 years, both love planting and making the space feel like home.
Before Judy left to address the swell of incoming customers, I asked her what the secret was behind her bagel. She answered simply: “I think bagel is very good bagel. Everybody likes them.”
I told her, “Maybe they like you!”
